Looking for a good one to start with.

So you got me to start looking at crossbow pistols, but it looks like there are many people selling all the same ones. Can anyone recommend one and post a picture of it please?

Wayne

I would go with the cobra type pistol crossbow. They are cheap 80 pounds and have the cool cocking mechanism.

I am looking at the 80LB, my question is of the different styles, which models holds up the best?
I am sure the self cocking is easier but do they ware faster than the manual cocking
Are the all metal bows really that much better? I like getting the best bang for the buck and have learned a high price tag does not always make a better product, and metal is not always better than plastic in some situations.

I am new to crossbows so take my new experiences and opinions with that in mind.
These are my experiences and opinions with the 3 Different types of pistol crossbows I have and what I have been learning in the last month. So I hope this helps someone choose the one they want.
When I decided it I wanted a Pistol crossbow I found it frustrating finding information that I could trust. Many of the reviews were from sellers and those that were from individuals were very mixed from one extreme to the other.
50LB Pistol crossbow
Now the 50lb I had packed away for over 16 years, it was given to me and was missing part of the rear site. This older one did not have a safety; I am thinking the new ones all have safeties.
The safety is so you can load it without injury to yourself, others, or property.
My 50LB has a plastic frame but the sights are metal, and of course you have a metal Prod. The 50LB do not have the stirrup but you simply hold the Pistol Grip and pull the Cocking Lever. I have seen these for as low as $14.99 shipped to your door.
For comparison only
The string is roughly around 16-3/4 in length (one inch shorter than the 80lb string)
The rail is roughly around 6-7/8” in length from back of prod to trigger catch.

80LB manual cocking
Decided I wanted an 80LB because I wanted more power so I bought a Metal 80LB manual cocking , this one was made in China.
I removed all screws one at a time and added blue locktite. The first time I shot it broke one of the plastic nocks but the seller was very understanding and sent me a new set with another string at no additional cost. The Prod for the 80lb are made of fiberglass, I noticed on this one that the Prod was notched for the nocks were not as even as my other 80lb prod from Taiwan below.
The manual cock 80LB have a Stirrup you put your foot in and pull on the Cocking Lever. I took mine off because it was not that hard to cock, in fact it feels about the same as my 50lb. I did do two separate penetration test and am convinced there is very little difference in the power. I do like my 80lb more over the 50lb do to that fact it is metal and has a working safety. I did replace a screw in the rear sight because it did not match the diameter of the threads in the adjustment.
The string is roughly around 17-3/4 in length (one inch longer than the 50lb string)
The rail is roughly around 6-7/8” in length from back of prod to trigger catch. (same as 50LB)



80LB Self-cocking
I so much enjoyed these pistols I decided to get one of the self-cocking, so I could shoot and reload faster. This one I was deceived because the description of a brand name and construction WERE NOT AS DESCRIBED, by seller.
This was a plastic no name brand from Taiwan that I think I paid $10 to much (shipping mainly)
The prod was nicer quality than my other 80lb Prod do to the fact it was notched more precisely for the nocks. I don’t have a problem with plastic if used in the correct places and of a quality molding. This one has plastic sights that will break at the slightest bump and of very poor quality almost useless without modifying. This pistol came with a string for a 50lb after I strung it I seen there was a problem. After putting on a spare 80lb string I had I went out to shoot it.
I found it more difficult to fire so with further inspection found that the pin for the safety switch was not fully installed. After this repair I went back out to fire again I shot but was difficult. Inspection showed that the safety was not UN engaging and should not have fired at all. With some trimming on the top of trigger mechanism I was able to get it to hold the trigger locked, and I also had to file a notch on top of the safety switch so it would stay when switched off.
This one was truly a disappointment and frustrating but now that I have it working it is far more powerful than my other 80LB because it has a longer rail, and the Prod did seem of a slightly better quality in how it looked and how it was notched for the nocks.
The rail is roughly around 8-3/8” in length from back of prod to trigger catch.

Bottom line I say go metal
Find a seller that is honest and has great support;
Make sure you are given correct string.

A seller told me the kits from Taiwan were slightly better Quality than the ones from china, this so far I have only seen in the Prods in my limited experience.

50LB + Cheaper in price good for target practice dose not destroy bolts as bad.
80LB manual, Cheaper than 80lb self-cocking, may be slightly more powerful than the 50lb, good for target practice
80lb self-cocking Powerful the longer rail makes a big difference; this one I see as good for self defense may be too powerful for target practice in a small area. Will destroy your bolts if you hit hard objects.

To string my crossbow I place it over a open 5 gallon bucket pointing down push it down by the pistol grip with one hand and place the lose end of the string on the nock with other hand, easy for one person. Place rages over bucket edge so not to scratch the Prod.

Dang Truthhunter; you must be beaucoup strong! No way I could compress my 80# Cobra clone bow with one hand and a pickle bucket while slipping the string on with the other hand!!

Good review of the problems with purchasing crossbow pistols sight unseen. I got lucky I guess. I too believe that the so-called self cocking pistolbows are overrated, and would suggest a newbie buy only a "recognized band name" like Cobra or Man-Kung. You'll pay a couple bucks more but be much more satisfied.

I believe that there is a market for a quality pistolbow out there, IF (and its a big if) folks are willing to pay more than $50 for a bow that is metal and wood (no plastic or fiberglass).

As you and I have discussed, the existing pistolbows aren't really pistols; the prods are far too long. I'm trying to source a maker of small steel prods of suitable draw and the cheapest I can find - just for the pod - is an outfit that will make them for me for $40 each, my cost in lots of a dozen. I wouldn't even know where to go to ask for bids on fiberglass prods of appropriate size. I do have some other spring steel sources to check out. I am exploring some alternatives and will keep everyone apprized as to my success or failure.

If anyone's interested, right now, I can build good quality carbine-sized crossbows, using replacement prods. They will be two-thirds the size of a full-sized crossbow, designed primarily for plinking. With either historical styles of tillers or sort of a steam-punk look.

I put 50lb string on my 80lb before I realized they sent me the wrong string, it was difficult for sure.


I was thinking I could put the 50lb string on my manual cock 80lb for more power because it dose not have as long a rail. However I decided that the prod would not be able to return to enough of a relaxed state so may shorten its life. I guess if I unstrung it each time for storage it would be ok. What you think?

I wouldn't worry so much about shortening the prod's lifespan, but putting a 50# string on an 80# bow (if it's really 80# draw) would seem to be asking for a broken string. It does sound as if the "short rail" pistolbow is/was incorrectly advertized as an 80# draw if it feels approximately the same resistance as your 50# prod. The only way to judge is get a fish scale or luggage scale and actually measure the draw weight.

I still think you should disassemble that short rail bow and make a new tiller and action for the prod. A push pin lock is dirt simple, and can be made with minimal tools. A roller nut lock isn't much more complicated. I can send you plans if you want.